What Does a Chef Want to Eat at the End of a Long Day? - The Wall Street Journal

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SLURP’S ON A simple combination of chicken stock and green curry paste, the broth at the base of this dish is flavorful and comforting.

Photo: ANDREW PURCELL FOR THE WALL STREET JOURNAL|, FOOD STYLING BY CARRIE PURCELL

By Kitty Greenwald

June 19, 2020 11:51 am ET

The Chef: Chris Weber

Photo: ILLUSTRATION: MICHAEL HOEWELER

His Restaurant: The Herbfarm in Woodinville, Wash.

What He’s Known For: Cooking creatively with immaculate produce. Pivoting from fine dining to community service, providing meals for hospitals in the Seattle area.

OVER THE LAST few months, Chris Weber has had to pivot and pivot again. With the Herbfarm, the restaurant outside Seattle where he’s the chef, closed to customers, he began providing free meals to hospital workers. When funding for that dried up, the Herbfarm partnered with the hotel next door so that the restaurant’s customers could dine safely there, and he started cooking high-end dishes once more. Now, with a spike of coronavirus infections a few hours from Seattle, he said he’ll restart the free meal program if there’s a need. “It’s reminded me why I got into cooking in the first place,” he said.

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Working long hours to feed others has enhanced his own appreciation of a wholesome meal. So for his final Slow Food Fast recipe, Mr. Weber shares a reliable go-to, a comforting combo of seared tomatoes, shishito peppers and new potatoes simmered in a green-curry broth, topped with a fried egg. It’s simple enough to whip up after a long day and sufficiently satisfying to fuel him through another. “It’s good late-night,” he said. “When you’re tired and need something really good and fast but not too heavy.”

Getting your pan ripping hot and giving the tomatoes and peppers a good sear draws out their sweetness and lends them a nice smoky bass note. A sprinkling of chopped basil on top makes a fresh,
fragrant (and dead-simple) garnish. Like the meals Mr. Weber has sent out to front-line workers, this fry-up is as delicious as any item on the tasting menus at the Herbfarm. “If you’re not eating well, then you don’t feel well,” he said. “So, how can you do your job well?”

Fried Eggs With Tomatoes, Peppers and Potatoes in Green Curry Broth

Total Time: 20 minutes

serves: 4

Ingredients

• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
• 1½ tablespoons green curry paste
• 3 cups chicken stock
• 10 baby or fingerling potatoes, halved lengthwise
• Kosher salt
• 4 eggs
• 1 cup shishito peppers
• 1 cup Sungold tomatoes
• 3 tablespoons butter
• ½ cup roughly chopped basil

Directions

1. In a large, high-walled pan, heat olive oil and garlic over medium-high heat. Add curry paste and sauté until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in stock, potatoes and a pinch of salt. Bring to a simmer and cook potatoes until fork tender, 15-20 minutes.
2. Once potatoes are halfway through cooking, set a large sauté pan over high heat. Once very hot, lower heat to medium-high and add half the butter. Crack half the eggs into pan. Once whites begin to set, arrange half the peppers and half the tomatoes around eggs. Salt yolks and vegetables. Roll vegetables around and once they blister in spots, after about 2 minutes, transfer eggs and vegetables to a plate. Repeat with remaining butter, eggs, tomatoes and peppers.
3. Distribute potatoes and some broth among four shallow bowls. Spoon in tomatoes and peppers, and top each serving with a fried egg. Scatter basil over top.

—Adapted from Chris Weber

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